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May 25, 2009

Shanghai, China

My first thought when I decided to visit China, was that I’m going to be very pissed with all that crowd of little Chinese who’s wearing funky haircuts and is crazy about Mickey Mouse. I was worried that I will spend my time with people that are speaking an impossible language, and that I will be bored to death, while millions of fake little red items will pass in front of my eyes. Eating with chop sticks was the last threat on my list…

The only relieve was Evelyne and her presence there.

When the plane landed on Pudong, Shanghai‘s International Airport, I smiled thinking that it looks [ironically!] small – like a local airport, where only a few jets take off and land everyday.

But after I stepped on Shanghanese land the wideness of Asia knocked me out. On the ground, actually, everything is enormous – first the line at the Custom, then the airport, which presents very modern facilities like any other international airport in the world. The good news is that immediately after the serious Custom Agent is giving you the non-penetrating look, plus the red entry stamp on the passport, things start flowing easily.

Shanghai (meaning "On the Sea") has 12.3 million people, who can see the sun rising in the same time as all their compatriots (China operates as one time zone), but has 8 hours ahead the Greenwich Mean Time. Also, there is no daylight savings time adjustment in the summer. Rich country! What can I say!? … In fact there are only 60 million millionaires in China.

Currency: Money can be changed inside the airport and within all the banks in the city. The national currency is 1 Yuan or 1 RMB (1 € ≈ 10 RMB and 1 $ ≈ 8 RMB). The bills are all having the portrait of Chairman Mao Zedong. They represent 1, 5, 10, 20, 50 or 100 RMB and the coins have values of 1 RMB. Smaller divisions are called Fen.

Transportation: Inside the airport can be found the train station for Maglev – the fastest train in the world. The Maglev Train runs 30 km between the airport and Longyang Road Metro Station, in the city, in 7 minutes, reaching a maximum speed of 431 km/hour. Tickets can be bought online or from the two stations. Prices (RMB): One Way Ticket: 50, 100 (VIP); Round Trip Ticket: 80, 160 (VIP)

In the city, a large net of buses and trolleys can be used, plus 4 lines of metro, connecting the main squares and junctions. Under or over ground passages for pedestrians can be found in the most crowded boulevards. Street Assistants are helping people to cross the streets and manage successfully to make a more fluid traffic.

In Shanghai, 70% of the cars out on the road are taxis. The licensed ones are charging 10RMB + 2RMB/km on daytime (5a.m.-11p.m.) and 13RMB +2.6 RMB/km on nighttime (11p.m.-5a.m.).

From the rail stations, trains are leaving to different parts of the country. Tickets should be booked in advance. However, there is always a English Speaking Office on site.

Highlights:

Nanjing Lu – “the Champs Elysée of China” is the most prosper shopping street in the country. The 1 033m long pedestrian road is crowded with tourists and locals on daytime. In the night is the living room of beggars and homeless. Still, after 10pm it becomes one of the few relaxing places in the city for a quiet promenade under the lights of the well known brand shops.

Yu Garden – situated in the downtown, south of the Bund is a 400 years old, most beautiful garden at south of Yangtze. Now, all 30 traditional pavilions and pagodas are transformed in vibrant bazaar packed with souvenir shops and restaurants. Main attractions are the Temple of the City God and the golden fishes from the lake aside.

People’s Square – the down town of Shanghai is the shelter of the municipal Museum, the city Theatre, Peace Cinema and People’s Park.

The Huangpu River – crosses the city and flows into the East China Sea. Cruise boats are riding along the river for a “blink-blink” view – on one side lies the Bund (the landmark of Shanghai), with old impressing buildings, and on the other (the new side) – all the lighted skyscrapers. Every night, from 7-11p.m., all the tall buildings in the city are lighted and can be admired better, because the air is breathable at that time of the day and the warm summer nights are perfect for long walks.

The Bund – the 2km boardwalk that lies along the Huangpu River is the birthplace and the symbol of East. This is the most famous sightseeing spot in Shanghai, which has always been closely linked with the development of the city.

The financial district Lujiazui – skyscrapers everywhere. This is a 28 km2 area, with a population of 540,000, into a financial, commercial and trade zone, which can be fund just opposite the Bund, across the Huangpu River.

The Jin mao Tower – the tallest tower in Shanghai, is “a must” for any tourist. The building of its 88 floors and 421m was ended in 1998, and since then can be visited every day. I missed the top observation deck, but I checked Cloud 9, the highest bar in the world. That’s a beautiful way of admiring the view, even if is not a 360° tour. Drinks are not expensive, but surprise, surprise they ask for a 110 RMB minimum charge to clients present after 8pm. So, don’t be surprised! Anyway, they have great deserts.

The Oriental Pearl Tower – the television and radio tower that was build in 1994, is located in Pudong Park in Lujiazui. It has 468 m and 14 floors that host 9 television channels and 10 FM radio channels. I never went there. This is one of my reasons to go back to Shanghai! But I found out that the admission fee is 50 RMB, that is opened from 08:40 to 21:30, buses 81, 82, 85, 870, 871, 872 stop there, and that 4 and a half hours for visiting are enough to get an idea.

The Tongji University Campus – is huge. The atmosphere is very Chinese. International students can get housing over the summer in the foreign students dormitory. There are double rooms with bathrooms and air conditioned system. That’s a blast, once you see the rooms for resident students. So, appreciate what you get there.

Tip: On top of the building there’s place for watching the city over the night and the sunrise at 5a.m.

Nightlife: – Dinner, in China, is around 6p.m., because the dark falls always around 7p.m. So, parties take place from 9p.m.-2a.m. The only clubs that are opened until 5a.m. or early dawn are the ones for expats. Bars’ street in Shanghai is Maoming Lu. Bars are just next door. Price lists are posted on the sidewalk. Make your pick, step in and enjoy! Chinese know how to party!

Anadolu – the only delicious Turkish restaurant in Shanghai. Wonderful atmosphere, beautiful Arabian music, extraordinary service, the best chicken döner! They also serve delicious kebabs and Turkish pizzas. Where? On Hengshan Lu

Café de Montmartre – typical French food in the middle of nowhere. Where? Xiangyang Nan Lu, next to the Xiangyang [‘Fake’] Market

Crepperie Française – delicious St Maló style galléte with Bretagne cider. They provide even forks! The cider is autentic and expencive! Where? Xiangyang Nan Lu, next to the Xiangyang [‘Fake’] Market

Yu Garden – traditional dim sum restaurants, on traditional pavilions

Bar Rouge – on the wonderful terrace of Bund 18, at the 6th floor, offers both a stylish bar and a large outdoor terrace with a breathtaking view over the financial district, Pudong and the Bund. Where? East ZhongShan Rd, at 10 minutes walking distance east of Henan Zhong Rd. station, Metro#2

Buddha Bar Shanghai – psychedelic atmosphere on bars’ street. Where? Maoming Lu

The House of Blues and Jazz – live shows, too small drinks, perfect atmosphere, international environment. Where? Maoming Lu

Mint – expats disco. Hosts a wide selection of house DJs throughout the week. Where? Tongren Lu

Mural Bar – French owned, happy hours, Latin treats, ladies nights, free drinks, excellent dishes, extraordinary interiors, dancing atmosphere. Michelle, the owner, is always between his guests, trying to make them feel well and helping them getting around the city. (www.muralbar.com)

Pegasus – expats kids disco. First impression: international high school party. But, Friday is an open bar night; general entrance 50 RMB.

Rojam – disco with Chinese flavor. Two rooms for different styles, cheep drinks, a lot of well dressed, happy, young, fashionable Chinese. They party better then in other mega cities. Ladies night are every Monday and Wednesday.

People:

Despite my being afraid of Chinese aggression, I was very impressed by their kindness and hospitality. Because Shanghai is a free zone from the '30s, the locals are used to foreigners and treat them normal. They have their own fashion style, but they know all the trends and brands in the world. They listen to good music and the Chinese pop sounds very nice. Many of them understand and speak very good English – especially taxi drivers, sellers and hotel stuff. Still, an interpreter is needed.

In services area everybody uses white (always clean) gloves. What impressed me the most is how they treat their clients like royalties! In a shop, one doesn’t have to do anything – they close in every button of a coat. They make sure that all the personal services are extremely well accomplished. Sometimes they are better then in the West and the final smile looks more real then in our society. The difference is made by employees’ attitude towards the client. Unfortunately, tips are forbidden by law.

The city is best to visit in spring and autumn. Summer is too hot and humid, and in winter, temperatures can drop below zero.

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