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June 22, 2009

Maui... an island where you will always want to return


Locals call Maui "the valley island". The Hawaii Tourism Authority considers it the main brand of advertising and the milking cow in any economic times. Tourists associate it with the idyllic place for honey moons. Yes! all the above statements are true. However, for me, Maui meant several times the perfect weekend getaway which made me say: "we went to Maui over the weekend and it was grrreat! I want to go back..."


Like any other students' trip, each time, we woke up before sunrise, grabbed the tents, blankets or sleeping bags (upon case), backpacks, and with our happy souls we headed to the airport or harbor (depending on which type of transportation was cheaper at the time). By ferry it takes three hours from Honolulu to Kahului, the capital of the island. By plane it takes 30 minutes. When we reached the destination, we always took the first trip to the rent-a-car company. Second was to the closest Wal-Mart (some sort of popular hypermarket) where as a tradition we always purchased the same 9$ barbecue, which ended up recycled at the end of each trip by a trashcan, along with charcoal and the rest of the food uneaten for other travelers. Only then we could start the trip...

The island has an approximate shape of number 8 leaned towards north-west, and attractions on all coasts. In the lower circle seats the Haleakala (3055m) crater of a dormant volcano for about 300 years. The mountain takes over 75% of the total surface of the island and displays some of the most variant scenery on each slope, from tropical forest to volcanic desert. When you go up (the main road comes from north), on sunny days you can see the rest of the island like you'd hold it in your hand, as well as the silhouettes of Molokai and Oahu. From the summit you can see as far as the snowy tops of Big Island (Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa) piercing the sky. Up there the landscape is selenary, and when you look down into the crater you feel how unbelievable small we are, and how powerful Mother Nature is... The colors of the soil vary from yellow clay to brown bear to slag or lava rock black.

At the base, on the south-east, slides the Road to Hāna – a three hours road (one way!), where you drive constantly with the ocean on your left and the tropical forest on your right, where the curves turn along waterfalls and hallucinating tropical vegetation towards the end of the world, where the volcano dies in the ocean, soon after the hippie town of Hāna. Until there it is absolutely necessary to stop at Wai`anapanapa beach which amazes with its black volcanic sand, protected by the lush tropical forest.


On the south-west versant of Haleakala you can reach the Tedeski winery, where is produced the white pineapple Maui wine, and further down the lavender farm.
At the base of the crater, on the south-west, the road takes you to the small town of Kihei famous for its spectacular sunsets and the view over the whole western Maui coast, along with the shapes of the other islands, and the famous luxurious Grand Wailea resort.


My favorite side, due to its beauty, romanticism and amazing memories has to be the north-west side of Maui. The road goes up the coast and looks a bit like the Transfãgãrãşanul when the asphalt pierces the rocks. Out on the ocean you can see first Kaholawe island – natural reserve due to the aggressive war exploitation during the WW2 and later on to the land mining training underwent by the American military, who seriously deteriorated the quality of the soil; the Molokini atoll – heaven of colorful corrals and tropical fish; Lanai island – which in the past use to be the main domain for sugar cane and pineapple plantations; and the Molkai island - with its abrupt landscape (grace to the mountain that takes over all island's surface), used to be the place where leprosy victims were sent to die. Stories talk about the fact that when a family member got leprosy was immediately deposited on a boat, pushed into the ocean's waters, and then left to the waves... Many never made it to the island, and those who arrived definitely found their end there, due to lack of food, medicine or fresh water.
The coast leis along the Hawaiian marine `Au`au channel where Humpback whales swim down from Alaska to the South Pacific, every winter to bread and feed. This is where I had another dream come true – a mother whale was swimming under the waters, calm and hard to identify. But next to her, by the shores, the baby whale was jumping from the waves and breaching in its entire splendor. This phenomenon is so rare that in the past years I have never managed to see it. All my eye could catch was an end of a tail or a fin, far away in the deep ocean, and one evening, in Maui, next to some one hundred people, I stared for minutes, with a constant large smile on my face, as long as that new born agreed to play. Then they left. No picture was clear. Though, I bet we're all going to keep that memory with us for a very long time.
On the same coast, on Honoapiilani Highway, between mile markers 11 and 12 is Papalaua beach – my favorite camping place. It is right on the edge of the road (perfect for parking and keeping an eye on the car, even if it is not necessary), it is separated from the noise of the road through a row of trees, who also offer shade, and the soft sand replaces perfectly the absence of mattress in the tent. In the morning, the view lets you speechless, when in front of your eyes you discover the small island of Lanai with its short crests.


Lahaina is my favorite town because here you meet the atmosphere of Vama Veche. Just relaaaax!... I like to call this place "Vama from the other end of the world", because it is exactly the way we like it – a small harbor, with nice terraces on docks, especially on Front St. among souvenirs shops and local art galleries, where every night tourists are walking hand in hand gazing at the romantic sunsets, the warm strip lights and the island typical music coming from restaurants' speakers.


Up from Lahaina, the road goes through Ka’anapali with its etalon hotel in regarding the display of local culture to tourists, and especially the educational activities that involve them in the Hawaiian history and traditions. Following the road to the north-east, tourists will see what actually gives the local name of the island – the famous sunny valleys, green due to so many waterfalls Maui has.


Therefore, the island addresses many types of tourists and tastes. That's why it is the pearl of the Hawaiian brand. It worth visiting for a weekend, a week, 10 day, or for months. It will always fascinate.

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