San Francisco - an actual city

I tried several times to plan a trip to the US west coast, that will include SF and I never succeeded from different reasons: I didn't know the city, I had no travel buddy, and I never had enough time.

However, this summer, Antoine – a French friend who I’ve met in Hawai`i – decided to ditch a PhD program in order to backpack on the west coast of South America from Baja to Chile and Brazil, for about six months or... until his money will run out. His trip started in California, and on the days that he passed through San Francisco I decided to catch a plane and join him. I was excited about this trip and extremely animated. Absolutely everybody that I've met and have lived or traveled there loved the architecture, the people, the culture, the cleanness, the shopping experience... So much that, a couple who stays regularly at our hotel even emailed me a walking tour of the city.

The trip started great, because I flew Virgin America which is by far one of the most fun airlines: the seats are purple, the cabin is illuminated by black disco lights, the headphones are pink and supra-dimensioned, and the safety video is for sure one of the lasts that impressed me and made me laugh in a long time (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eyygn8HFTCo).

Arrived in SFO (San Francisco International Airport) I already felt that the people who live in this city are more educated academically, as well as culturally compared to the average American, due to the exhibits displayed in the public areas, to the BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) technology, and the cleanness of the place which yes! is rare here, too. As soon as I've got into town, I met my buddy and started to explore. SF is known to have one of the best mass transits in US, therefore we took advantage of it, even though a ticket offers only one transfer. On the other side, SF is a city that deserves to be walked, so you need comfortable shoes and legs ready to climb all those hills and stairs.

First stop took place at Pier 39, famous for its sightseeing, and for the sea lions that started to arrive at the docks to sunbath after the massive 1989 earthquake, which measured 7.1 degrees on Richter scale.

Along with the romanticism of the fishermen's buildings and typical cuisine, from Pier 39 can be admired the on-shore – on-water play of the sea lions, Alcatraz island, the Golden Gate Bridge, the Bay Bridge and the skyline of the financial district.

Alcatraz, is as accessible as in the past, because tickets sell out weeks in advance especially during the summer, and of course I went there unprepared.

The Bay Bridge is "the other" bridge which crosses the bay linking the SF with Oakland. Part of interstate 80, the double-decked bridge was built between 1933-1936, has a total of 10 lanes, a length of 2822m, and a traffic of approximate 270,000 vehicles per day which makes it one of the most busiest bridges in the world.

Golden Gate on the other side was the attraction of the day and the target of our very looong walking trip – there are 7km from Pier 39 to Golden Gate Bridge. Well, that wasn't the worst thing. In Mark Twain's words "the coldest winter I ever lived, was a summer in San Francisco". Sunny California does not necessarily describe the Bay Area. In August there were 15˚C, so our trip was garnished with sun and clouds, short sweats and brief coldness, which resulted in a red face and afferent repercussions.

On our way, we first deviated trough Fisherman’s Wharf where old ships can be seen and the famous clam-chowders in sour bread bowls can be eaten at its best. Then, on Marina Blvd we looked at houses that have over-dimensioned windows, pale colors paint, and beautiful views overseeing the Bay. What made me smile was not the fact that these residents have the fortune of waking up to such views every morning, nor that they had the (miss)inspiration of painting their houses as a newborn's bedroom, but the fact that absolutely all houses have a room, on the street side, with an enormous window that has no curtains or shades. If in the middle of the day I could see their undone beds and furniture, can help but wonder what can be "admired" early in the morning or in the evening before bedtime!?

I left behind my puritan thoughts, and stopped at the next attraction – the Palace of Fine Arts – an open theater built on ancient Greek and Roman architectural style. This is one of the few buildings that escape demolition after the 1915 Panama-Pacific Exposition which celebrated the opening of the Panama Canal. The theater impresses with its architecture totally different from the rest of the city, with the romanticism of the time passed from the turn of the century, and with the history of this place. Next objective was of course the Golden Gate Bridge, who attracts thousands of tourists every year, but which from a short distance didn't impress me that much... However, I saw pictures; pictures of the bridge among heavy clouds of fog, typical to the Bay Area which look magical. Our day was clear and we could admire it in its fullness.

Back to the downtown we got a chance to visit SF MOMA – the West Coast sister of the Museum of Modern Art from New York. Every first Tuesday of the month it can be visited for free. Well, if the trip doesn't take place in that specific day, the museum lobby, shop and café are always open to the public. Across the street from SF MOMA we found the Yerba Buena Park. It doesn't have impressive dimensions, but it brings a breath of fresh air in a city drown in concrete, on the grass, under a tree, or in the fountains where I use to cool my feet. Next on the list was Transamerica – built in a pyramid shape in the financial district, the building dominates the whole city. Unfortunately it cannot be visited due to the 9/11 events, but it still remains a symbol and the tallest skyscraper in San Francisco.

Disappointed that we couldn't admire the view of the city from the top of Transamerica, we decided to climb one more hill, fairly steep, to reach the Coit Tower – the one which for many years, with its 64m, held the title of the tallest building in SF. The tower was built on the Telegraph Hill, in Art Deco style, in 1933, at the wish of some Lillie Hitchcock Coit, who donated a third of her estate to the preservation of the beauty of her beloved city. From its base can be seen the incredible panorama of the San Francisco Bay, including Golden Gate Bridge, the Marine National Museum Park, Alcatraz, Pier 39, Fisherman’s Wharf, Angel Island, Treasure Island, Bay Bridge, the city of Berkley and the financial district. Inside, the New Deal inspired mural which hides some surprising socialist details can be admired.

Going down the hill, somehow we ended up in China Town – first established in US. The crowd’s dynamic is exhausting at any hour of day, but the Asian fruits explosions of aromas and tastes worth the effort... From this point you can catch one of the buses that run on Stockholm Street and therefore headed towards downtown, after passing through the Chinese neighborhood, the Italian neighborhood, and the Russian neighborhood...

We got off on one of the streets that have the famous cable car - the symbol of SF – and with twinkles in our eyes we jumped in the first wagon that stopped at the corner of the street, in the same way they show it in the movies. We took it just for one stop, only to jump in another one which took us to Union Square. Later on we heard a driver charging a $5 fare.

Union Square, along with other symbols of San Francisco contributes to the metropolitan status. The square has the majesty of all great American cities, with its high, modern skyscrapers, but also with its massive, historical buildings that host now hotels, theaters, and especially shopping centers or department stores. Union Square in San Francisco rivals only Vegas on the number of luxury American, as well as European and Asian brands. Because of this place, SF can be named the Milan of the West Coast. The list includes: Macy's, Bloomingdale's, Barneys New York, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, Dior, Chanel, Dolce & Gabbana, Burberry, Prada, Armani, Boucheron, Hugo Boss, Tiffany & Co., Piaget, De Beers, Bulgari, Polo Ralph Lauren, Lacoste, Salvatore Ferragamo, Cartier, Bijan, Marc Jacobs, Hermès, Ermenegildo Zegna, Old Navy, Forever 21, Anthropologie, Apple Store, United Colors of Benetton, Urban Outfitters, Abercrombie & Fitch, Gap, American Eagle Outfitters, H&M, Zara, MNG by Mango, Kenneth Cole New York, Guess, Juicy Couture, Tumi, BCBG Max Azria, Banana Republic, Coach … uff!

Ah… Christmas will look very well!

My PC took me to PB

As far as I know there are four beach areas in the city of San Diego: Coronado, Ocean Beach, Mission Bay Beach, and Pacific Beach. The later I did not yet visit in the six months I’ve lived here and didn’t really feel so eager to explore it anytime soon. Based on the prejudice that the area hosts a bunch of student rental houses kept me away from what I thought to be a campus like neighborhood.

WROOooNG!!

One shiny morning my Windows Vista PC crashed in front of my eyes living me with a day of despair, useless phone calls, runs to the library, questions, and failed attempts to restore it. In the end I picked some random phone numbers from PC repair shops in my neighborhood and cried for help. Needless to say none were successful until finally someone answered at the other end of the line, plus! had a satisfactory solution… However! it ended up to be located in Pacific Beach.

Hmm… so, I though: my steps might take me today to an unexplored area, by the sand surf and sun, relax and hard/soft ware nirvana!??!... Why not?! I embarked a series of trams, buses and never before walked streets to a small PC repair shop owned by some young Israeli “Regie-like” boys who just made my day brighter!! Judah and Tom used to have an office in downtown, five blocks away from my house and just moved to PB due to economic restrains. The shop runs because of their skills (apparently Microsoft certified) and produces profit to fuel their surfing camp trips to the Pacific shores of Costa Rica. Because of them I’ve got to discover a new side of San Diego, which turns out to be another favorite place.

Pacific Beach might be a students mainly neighborhood, but it also strikes me as healthy, clean and family vacation oriented. The arena is populated with restaurants (street and ocean front), beautiful worldly shops, bicyclists, vacationers, relaxed people, holiday atmosphere. What I really like is the beach, which has beautiful views and wide golden sandy area, all though devoided of palm trees or shade. What I don’t like, which seams to become a leitmotif of the West Cost shores, is the abundant algae population and the low temperatures of the ocean waters.

On a professional side, I was immediately attracted by what I think to be the landmark of PB – the Crystal Pier Hotel. Established in 1927, this is a typical American beach cottage based hotel, built on the pier over the beach and waves. Their logo romantically invites guests to “Sleep over the ocean” and immediately transposes the spirit into the calm of the Pacific waves.

I asked the key keeper what type of clientele they have, giving the fact that it looked to me as a shabby, but not too classy place. The place would really use a facelift! Well, even though, while having only 32 cottages the rates gravitate around $300/night. This shoots targets into the family market and advises reservations to be made 4-6 months in advance.

Crossroads

San Ysidro/Tijuana - music of Bic Runga – Gravity

Recently I discovered that the tram that passes by my house goes all the way to Mexico, to the border city of Tijuana. This idea exited my adventurous spirit who wanted to be so close and still not there... Off topiiiiiiiiic..., the tram also stops to an Outlet Mall that just happens to be there. ;)

Therefore, I bought a tickets, jumped in the tram and started so the adventure!

I passed downtown, the industrial district, some villages, colored wild flowers bordering the tracks, Tijuana river, all the way to San Ysidro – the border town of the Southern California.

Amazing how fast you reach an end of a road.

One crossroad up I passed a bridge (which has also a side walk!) built over the highway I-5 which crosses the two countries. I've got there around noon. So, the view had to impress me on my return, in the evening, when I walked the same road towards the tram station. The bridge offers a perfect view over the hills and towns from "the other side". What catches the attention, though, is the huge Mexican flag that flutters in the wind and obviously can be observed from an impressive distance. Hm... great idea!, but what just happened with the American patriotism?... Probably was all wasted through the building of some 500km of fence dedicated to the limitation of southern immigration?!

The moment that moved me:

Through the evening, an amazing number of Mexicans get back home from work, at the south of the American dream. Simple humans, that live their lives between two worlds, were walking home with different vehicles – cars (apparently bought and registered in California, because I have not seen even one car with Mexican license plates), Tijuana charters, tram, coach, on foot, etc. I was the only white person, but not Hispanic (!) that crossed the bridge in the opposite side – towards San Diego, not Mexico. All the people that walked against me had the same facial features, same road to home, and for sure the same cultural baggage. The ones that walked alone seemed generally sad, while the one walking in groups were happily chatting. Another Hispanic stereotype related to machismo – that attitude which falsely breathes "I'm always fine", rain or shine... On the middle of the bridge I took a look at the entire immediate section of the highway. On the north bound the traffic was fluid – one or two cars here and there, while on the south bound – jam on all seven lanes!! Bumper to bumper. My friends tell me this seems to be every evening's scenery, at the most crowded border in the world. For a second I tried to think about all the souls that managed or not to cross this border. What did this mean for each of them. I felt a mix of romanticism, drama and ignorance. How much do we actually know about these people? How much do others actually know about us? What is actually our road in this life?

I got back on the tram. Only now I realized how empty it actually is, when going back to the city...

The sun set over the Pacific, bringing night over Mexico... as well as over all of us, isn't it? Life goes on.

Note: George Lopez could raise the moral, right about now.

San Diego, CA

Disclaimer: I have not yet visited San Francisco, which is so praised by any soul that ever walked its streets. Therefore, to me for now, San Diego is my favorite city in California, especially after I have been crudely disappointed by LA. It has an old European architecture, people are more relaxed, the beaches are nice and the harbors have restaurants or attractions that are used for promenade not only army and industry.

To this point life in this city was more as a vacation... and I had the chance to behave like a tourist. What did I learn from my expedition? San Diego is totally different, depending on what part of it you are.

I discovered Ocean Beach, the hippie neighborhood, which amazingly don't bother me at all! They are a little unwashed, but nicely colored, and enjoy all benefits of laid back life, have most of the time an animal companion, set up bone fires on the beach, play the guitar under the stars, eat health and love yoga... A! Yeah, there are also surfers... This neighborhood has the longest pier on the West Coast (601m). Also here you'll find Newport Ave – a strip full of bars, restaurants, antique stores and a typical Southern Cal atmosphere. Sunsets are spectacular every night.

Old Town is in fact the first settlement in the developing of San Diego, in 1850s. Today is some sort of village museum transformed into a touristy neighborhood, enriched with Mexican restaurants, old houses and wild wild west stores, where attendants are dressed like 150 years ago. Everything looks very authentic, Mexican music can be heard at every step and they say that the Mexican food here is the best that can be found out of Mexico.

After the (obviously!) Mexican lunch I took the Old Town Trolley which in my opinion is the best guided tour of San Diego. It takes you to the main attractions, you can get off at each stop, explore and when you finish, jump in the next trolley and continue the tour. The driver is also the tour guide who's telling stories to the passengers, the wind goes to your hair all day, and at night you're brought back from where you left. The tour goes from Old Town - the harbor - Seaport Village (one of my favorite places in SD) - Coronado island (where lays the historic Hotel del Coronado, and the beach is considered one of the most beautiful in US) - Gaslamp district (the old downtown, transformed into the epicenter of joy and fun) - Balboa Park.

Seaport Village is one of my favorite places in San Diego. It is actually a mix of restaurants and souvenirs stores in a park, where you can admire the ocean, walk on alleys, and take memorable pictures of the bay, the bridge, and the island.

Coronado is tied to the city through a magnificent long bridge (3,407m) that crosses the bay and shortens the trip to the other side. One half of the island (actually the peak of a peninsula) is the home of a residential neighborhood, and the other half the home of the American Navy. But what attracts the tourists there is the symbol of the island – Hotel del Coronado. At its inauguration in 1888 this was the largest hotel in world. Today, it is considered the oldest, still standing and functioning, totally wooden built hotel in all North America.

Gaslamp district is in downtown. I tested a few bars and restaurants, and all surpassed my expectations, in terms of design and ingeniousity, given the fact that we are in US. I already discovered my favorite place - Café Sevilla - a place with authentic tapas, flamenco shows and gypsy Spanish guitar. I recommended cheese fondue á la Spanish/Mexican mixed with mushrooms and garlic! Another nice place is Altitude - the bar set on top of the Marriott hotel, at the 22 floor, where you can see the spectacular lights of the city (something like MNAC, not La Motoare).

Balboa Park seems to be bigger than the Central Park in New York (1200 acres), only that the vegetation is affected by the local desert climate. It was planted in 1915 for the Panama - California exposition (something like the World Expo from Paris in 1900). The city got then the most important lifting in history and rose from the status of Mexican village to city, attraction and destination. The park hosts most of San Diego's museums, from aviation to art and sciences. The park has also botanical gardens, a theater and some sort of open air concert hall (the Spreckels Organ Pavilion) where every Sunday, rain or shine, at 2pm takes place a free classical concert. This Spreckels donated the impressive organ, with the highest tube in the world, to the city with the condition that the municipality to present one concert every week, on the day and time indicated by him.

San Diego Zoo is world renowned especially for it extensive research work, as well as the high standard conditions the animals live in. It was also established due to the Panama – California exposition. Soon after the exhibit ended, a series of animals were left behind, with no one to take care of them. This is when Dr. Harry Wegeforth decided to take care of these animals and keep them into one place. One thing led to another, and today the Zoo represents one of the most prestigious of its kind on a global level.

The Wild Animal Park is part of the San Diego Zoo as well, only that it is situated in the canyon of Escondido, 35 miles north of the city. It is home for many endangered animals from all continents. This is were I learned to beat my fear of free-ranged enclosures when it comes to wild animals - they seem to live in an open land with no fences, and look like they are able to walk free whenever they want, right before they could step out humans have built deep ditches which horrifies them and keeps them at a pleasant distance from visitors. Another attraction of the park is the night safari which from where I stand looks like camping at the zoo - you're still not allowed to interact with the animal, but you get to see them more active over the dark.

Sea World is the famous water park that attracts millions of visitors to the Mission Bay every year for its shows, marine life exhibits and educational programs developed there. Main attraction in the San Diego park is the Shamu – killer whales show which entertain visitors and splashes them on occasions. I learned is best to go there on a day with full sunny sky for the best experience. Along with the pretty Orcas, my favorites are also the Beluga whales.

La Jolla is the jewel of San Diego, found at 20 minutes north of the city. It gave me the impression I was back in Monaco, only that the stores don't have the glow of the European fashion. I spent a day on the beach there, where the highlight turned out to be the monk seals sun bathing on the shores, the seagulls and... pelicans, which seem to be typical on the West Cost!